- It strikes me that there are three types of restaurants in Paris.

o        2 and 3 star restaurants (we went to Taillevent which was incredible)

o        For lack of a better word, ‘international’ restaurants

o        And, the sort of restaurants middle and upper-middle class Parisians might eat

- With that lead-up out of the way, a few recommendations in that last category:

Chez Michel

Our last meal in Paris. The chef and the pastry chef came out to join us near closing. He’s from Brittany and cooked for the national team in ’98, if memory serves. The sugar tart is delicious for dessert and unbelievably challenging to make for something that looks so simple. (I spent 15 minutes w/the pastry chef learning how to do what it took him 6 months to get right.) Here’s the zagat review:

Food	Decor	Service	Cost
23	13	18	€42

“A few blocks from the Gare du Nord, but otherwise in the middle of nowhere” (“take a taxi at night”), this New French “filled with both locals and tourists” serves “creative, delicious dishes from chef-owner Thierry Breton’s native Brittany”, including lots of “squeaky-fresh fish”; “prices are terrific” and the “atmosphere pleasant” – the “service is not nearly as surly as everyone says” – so never mind the “crammed tables”, but do “avoid the dreary, barrackslike basement if you can.”

10 rue Belzunce, 01-44-53-06-20

And here’s the review from the routard guide:

The countless people who choose to stay in one of the many hotels near the station will be delighted to know that they can now eat in the area as well. The supreme skill of the Breton chef draws attention to this place, which is in a part of the city where greasy spoons abound. The terrine of andouille with peppercorns and short-bread biscuits is out of this world, while the guineafowl ravioli with a sauce of ceps and crushed walnuts is so incredibly good that you’ll have to loosen your belt to make room for kig ha farz (pig’s cheeks with country bacon) or Breton lobster with a little sprinkling of parmesan cheese. Great desserts include warm kouign aman (traditional Breton yeast cake) – worth every calorie. Reckon on paying in the region of 30 Euros a la carte

Taillevent

We chose it because it is an institution. But it is in no way stuffy. Thomas Keller worked there in the 80s. The service was unreal. So good in fact that when we went back to the French Laundry in March it made us acutely aware of the flaws in the Laundry’s service. (Although the Laundry’s food is every bit as good as anything we had in Paris.) They offer a 70 euro lunch menu. Exceedingly reasonable by three star standards. But you have to ask for it. They present you with the bling menus when you first sit down. The lighter cheaper lunch menu is a nice way to sample 3 star dining. One other memory: I had a question about the wine I had with lunch and emailed it back to Taillevent. The owner responded with the name of the vintage and the wine along with the name and contact information of the us importers. That’s service! We’ll be back every time we’re in Paris.

Food	Decor	Service	Cost
28	28	28	€159

Again Paris’ No. 1 for Food and Popularity, this “mythic” site in the 8th is “as much a landmark as the Eiffel Tower”; chef Alain Solivérès’ classic Haute Cuisine is “exquisite”, “no detail is missed” by “consummate host”-owner Jean-Claude Vrinat’s staff (“I was squinting because I’d forgotten my glasses, and a waiter presented various pairs on a silver tray”) and the “sumptuous” setting now boasts “a refreshing contemporary style”; “reservations are not only required but difficult”, but the “memories will last the rest of your life.”

La Regalade

Our first meal in Paris. Conny still can’t stop talking about the giant communal terrine the plopped down in front of us to start the meal. I also seem to remember a grand marnier soufflé. Very good food and reasonably priced. Nothing international about this place except the mix of diners.

49 av. Jean-Moulin

01.45.45.68.58

This is a gem of a place, with a décor that’s both low-key and refined and a chef who is inspired. There’s just the one menu-carte and 30 euros offering fresh, inspired cuisine using authentic local produce. And so far, success hasn’t changed this very special restaurant which has recently been taken over by a new young chef. You have to book ahead, especially for a Saturday night. (Conny and I ate their post-new-chef, the food still is all that.)

Food	Decor	Service	Cost
23	14	17	€45

The man who made it a “must-do”, chef “Yves Camdeborde, has moved on” – “but you can’t see or taste [much] difference” declare disciples of this bistro deep in the 14th; it’s “still a winner” serving “massive portions” of “stupendous” “Classic French country food” “at a fraction of the price” of others; it’s also still “crowded and chaotic” with service that’s “a bit grumpy”; but “just thinking about the terrine” “that comes as an all-you-can-eat amuse-bouche” keeps ’em coming back.

Our biggest regret was that we couldn’t get in here. It was closed during the holidays. We heard nothing but superlatives from people we talked to.

Trou Gascon (Au)

40, rue Taine
Paris, France 75012
01 43 44 34 26

Food	Decor	Service	Cost
24	17	23	€72

Foie gras fanatics feel “the heart of Alain Dutournier’s genius” lies in this small, modern site “way off the beaten path” in the “far-from-fancy” 12th, where the celebrated chef-owner serves “delicious, refined” Southwestern fare that’s “the essence of authentic country cuisine”, along with a “wonderful and unusual wine list” and a “huge Armagnac collection”; a few quack it “could use a face-lift”, but to the majority, it’s “still a standout.”